To make cream blush from scratch you will need:
I'm a huge proponent of creating by weight, not volume. When you create by weight (unintentional rhyme) your results will be the same every time, guaranteed. With volume, you're bound to get inconsistent/ inaccurate results because certain oils/powders have different densities. It's slightly confusing so for more information check out this awesome explanation by the Soap Queen.
Here is the basic recipe of the blush:
I used castor oil to make my blush but you can use something else if your skin type won't permit something so heavy. Castor oil is what gives most lipsticks their shine, so this particular blush has a luminous finish. If you have oily skin or just like a more matte less dewy looking cream blush, you should try grapeseed oil, fractionated coconut oil or a combo of the aforementioned oils at 77%. Other 'light' oils include:
Lanolin is one of my favorite ingredients when DIYing but some people don't use it due to ethical reasons (it's not vegan) or because of sensitivity reasons. Lanolin is helpful for increasing longevity of makeup items (it is a natural waterproofing agent) and for those of you with dry skin, it can be a soothing addition to your products, especially in the winter months. I used liquid lanolin for this particular recipe but it can also be found as a thick viscous oil (think honey, molasses, wet clay in texture). If you'd like, you could use cocoa butter or shea butter in place of lanolin, but you won't receive the long wearing benefit and you may have issues with a gritty blush if it cools too fast.
Beeswax is the thickener in this recipe- it creates the 'cream' texture and helps the product adhere on the skin. There are other vegan waxes available for use, but they generally require different ratios.
To confuse things a bit, I used both volume and weight for this specific recipe.
Kaolin Clay 1 Teaspoon
Kaolin has oil absorption properties- making it a great ingredient for oily skin. It is also a thickener so if you like a stiffer blush with a less oily feel, you may want to add more kaolin.
Talc 1 Teaspoon
Talc is a much maligned ingredient that I could talk about for hours. The short of it is that talc adheres to the skin, repels water, offers a nice skin feel to cosmetics and is FDA approved to be used in makeup. If you are sensitive to talc (or afraid of it) you may use serecite mica or another similar filler.
Colorant 1 Teaspoon
I used Red Blue Oxide to make my deep berry blush, but you could use any powder colorant of your choosing. Beetroot is a popular choice for natural blushes, but it can add grittiness to your blush. If you choose to use a mica, its best not to grind it as it may negatively impact the coloring of your blush.
Oil Dispersible Titanium Dioxide 1 Teaspoon
Titanium dioxide increases the opacity of the blush so the more you use, the more pigmented your blush will be. If you'd like a more sheer blush, you may skip titanium dioxide or use less of it.
- Melt all the oils and beeswax in a small pan, in a double boiler, or in your microwave. Use the lowest heat setting possible (oils can burn!)
- While that's heating, use a small grinder or mortar and pestle to combine powder ingredients together. Mix as much as possible until everything looks blended together. Feel free to experiment with using different ratios of pigment to filler depending on your needs.
- Once beeswax is melted, remove from heat and mix in 1 teaspoon of the pigment blend. Depending on your skin tone/ your love of blush, you may want to add more or less than 1 teaspoon of the pigment blend. I have a deeper skin tone and I ended up using about 1.5 teaspoon of pigment in 1 ounce of the oil blend.
- When the mixture has cooled a bit but is not solid, add a few drops of preservative and/or vitamin e. Vitamin E will help the oils last as long as possible while the preservative will stave off mold/bacteria/yeast growth. Mix well.
- Pour into a sanitized container and let cool until solidified.
- Dab a tiny bit on your cheeks and blend away!
What do you think? Let me know what other cosmetic recipes you'd like to see!